Quest for 108 - Part 2 (Sirkazhi-Thirunagur-Chidambaram Divya Desams)
The Story
Hey.
In 2017 I set out to visit all the Divya Desams and document my visits to these temples.
Do you’ve no clue what the above sentence means? Well, here’s a refresher to part 1 of my journey.
Assuming you’re now sufficiently informed, I will dive right in. Next on my list was Sirkāzhi-Thirnangur, two small and bustling towns in the district of Nagapattinam in Tamil Nadu. Out of 13 Divya Desam temples in the area, I managed to visit 11 and by a happy coincidence, I visited another in Chidambaram as well when I was there for my friend’s wedding reception. I visited these temples betwen late October and early November 2018. That now brings my tally to 27, and I think Nārāyana wants me to visit Sirkāzhi again for the remaining 2. (Note - an accented “ā” sounds like “aa”)
That’s right! We asked you for a vlog this time, remember?
I did remember, and I did take a few videos in an attempt to create a running narration of the temples I am visiting. But this didn’t turn out as I expected because it was raining cats and dogs the entire time I was there, and second, I need to learn how to vlog better. Still, I will try to create a short video and post the link here soon.
Getting there
Sirkāzhi is around 240 km from Chennai. Unlike last time, I couldn’t plan to complete visiting the temples within a day, especially because I found out that the temples were open only at certain times, and lack of archakās (priests) meant that only with the help of a local autorickshaw driver could I visit the temples, as they possessed “exclusive” information on the temple’s open hours. I decided to take the Tiruchendur Express from Chennai Egmore the previous evening around 4 pm and reached Sirkāzhi around 9 pm. The journey offered some good views of the countryside.
I had also found an auto driver’s contact information online and had communicated with him before my journey. I met with him at Sirkāzhi station and went to the hotel room I had booked for the night, Chola Inn.
The next morning I was up and ready by 7 am. The driver was ready and we had a sumptuous breakfast topped with a filter coffee at Vasanta Bhavan nearby before starting on our temple trip.
The Temples
The temples in this area were built by the Chozhas, who were one of the longest ruling dynasties in history, and were big temple patrons. The region was later under the rule of Pandyas and the Thanjavur Nayak dynasty, both of whom may have made additions to the temples.
1. Thiruvāli - Thirunāgari - Sri Lakshmi Narashimha Perumāl Temple
Although Thiruvāli and Thirunāgari are two separate temples (around 5km from each other), they’re considered to be a single Divya Desam due to their paired occurrence in all the Prabhandam pāsurams (poems).
I stopped at Thirunāgari first. As is my want, I enquired about the history and “aidheegam” (belief) of the temple. The archaka there told me that this shrine had the only Ranganāthar sitting in a kalyana (marriage) pose and hence was believed to be deity for marriages. This temple is also considered the birthplace of Thirumangai Azhwār, one of the 12 revered Tamil poet-saints.
Thirunāgari also had 2 Narasimhā mūrtis as Sirkāzhi was a pancha-Narasimhā sthalam (5 Narasimhas).
I visited Thiruvāli towards the end of my trip, where the main deity was again Lakshmi Narashimhar, with the unique aspect being that Lakshmi sits on Narasimhā’s lap on His right side, while usually, She’s on the left.
Both the temples were huge, compared to the rest I visited there.
Factoids -
Main deity - Vayalāli Manavālan (Thiruvāli) & Vedarāja Perumāl (Thirunāgari).
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Kulasekara azhwār and Thirumangai azhwār.
2. Thiru Devanār Thogai - Sri Mādhava Perumāl Temple
From there we headed to the eleven temples which form the Thirunāngur Tirupathi’s. The rain was non-stop and as I feared, the deserted temple wasn’t open yet. Luckily the archakar was staying nearby and he was patient enough to open the temple just for my sake. The irritable nature of most archakar’s meant I wasn’t able to gather many details from them regarding the temples, but I don’t mean to blame them because it is a very tough job, and they’re paid a pittance.
The temple was unique in its narrow pathway leading up to the deity.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Deiva Nāyaga Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Periyazhwār, Thirumazhisai azhwār & Thirumangai azhwār
3. Thiruvellakulam (Annan Perumāl Koil) - Sri Srinivāsa Perumāl Koil
What I liked best about this temple was the huge kulam in front of it. It is called as Swetha Pushkarani which later became Vellakulam. The azhwār praises the main deity here as “Annan” (brother) as he is considered the elder brother of the Srinivasan at Tirupathi. A relatively well-maintained temple compared to the others in the area.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Annan Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Periyazhwār, Thirumazhisai azhwār & Thirumangai azhwār
4. Thiru Manimāda Koil - Sri Nārāyanā Perumāl Temple
Considered the most prestigious of the eleven temples, I was informed that praying here was equivalent to praying at all the 11 Thirunangur temples. A huge temple with the main deity Narayana in a sitting posture. I was also told that He is considered equal to the Nārayanā at Badrinath, India.
An interesting fact about the Garbha Graham (Sanctum Sanctorum) is that there are three portholes through which the sun shines on His face every day.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Nārāyanā Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Periyazhwār, Thirumazhisai azhwār & Thirumangai azhwār
5. Thiru Arimeya Vinnagaram - Sri Kuda Māda Koothan Perumāl Temple
Couldn’t quite experience this temple well because the archakar was in a hurry to send us off. Yet another Vishnu in a sitting posture. He’s called Kudamadakoothar because He lifts the Govardhana mountain as if it’s a kudai (umbrella).
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Kuda Māda Koothan
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Periyazhwār, Thirumazhisai azhwār & Thirumangai azhwār
6. Thiru Thetri Ambalam - Sri Seganmāl Ranganaātha Perumāl Temple
Temples in this area don’t have enough funds and hence there aren’t dedicated archakar’s for each temple; they keep switching between temples. When I reached this temple the archakar was missing, so I had to make-do from the doorway. Nārayana is in his anantha sayanam (sleeping) pose here, and the guard nearby explained that he was considered equal to the Ranganāthar at Srirangam. He was beautiful to look at. This temple is also known as Palli Konda Perumal Temple.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Seganmāl Ranganātha Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Thirumangai azhwār & Poigai azhwaār
7. Thiru Vanpursushottaman - Sri Purushotama Perumāl Temple
From the name of the temple, you would have guessed that it houses none other than the Maryāda Purushottam Sri Ramā. A very handsome moolavar (main deity) and utsavar (deity taken out during festivals). Similar to the above temples, worshipping here is considered equal to worshipping Sri Ramā at Ayodhya.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Purushottaman Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Thirumangai azhwār
8. Thiru Vaikunda Vinnagaram - Sri Vaikunda Nāthan Perumāl Temple
Vaikundam or Paramapadham is considered the ultimate destination for any Sanātani (one’s who adhere to Sanātana Dharma) and this temple houses Vaikunda Nāthar, who is considered equal to Paramapadhanadhan of Thiru Paramapadham (one of the two DD’s for the afterlife). Unique aspects in this temple are that it houses the only uthsavar in a sitting posture, and the deity is seated on ādiseshan. Also, there isn’t a separate thayār sannadhi (sanctum for the goddess) or for garudar, both of whom are present in the main sanctum.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Vaikunda Nāthan
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Periyazhwār, Thirumazhisai azhwār & Thirumangai azhwār
9. Thirumanikoodam - Sri Varadarāja Perumāl Temple
The main deity here is Varadarājar who my grandmother used to call as the God for studies. The deity here is seen with 4 hands. A small temple, which was deserted, but felt fulfilling nevertheless.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Varadarāja Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Periyazhwār, Thirumazhisai azhwār & Thirumangai azhwār
10. Thiru Pārthan Palli - Sri Thāmaraiyāl Kelvan Perumāl Temple
Good ol' Pārthasārathy (Sārathy - charioteer of Pārtha - Arjuna, who is Krishnā, as per the Mahābhārathā). The main deity here is representative of Lord Krishna who initiated the education of Arjunā here, thus the name “Pārthan” (Arjunā) “Palli” (school).
The deity is seen with a dagger in his belt and the legend goes that Arjuna used this dagger to dig up the koil kulam (Kadga Pushkarani) to quench his thirst. The main deity here is considered equal to the Pārthasārathy at Triplicane, Chennai.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Thāmarayāl Kelvan Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Thirumangai azhwār & Poigai azhwar
11. Thiru Kāvalampaadi - Sri Gopāla Krishna Perumāl Temple
A small temple dedicated to Lord Krishna. He is seen here with Rukmani and Sathyabhāma. This temple has no madapalli (Kitchen in temples) since the deity accepts the devotees as his food (kāvalam means a small quantity of food).
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Gopāla Krishna Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Thirumangai azhwār
That completed the temples I was able to visit in Sirkāzhi/Thirunangur. I did take photos from the outside of the other two, which I hope to visit again soon. They are -
12. Thiru Sempon Sei Koil - Sri Per Arulālan Perumāl Temple
Although the temple was open, the archakars were busy doing pooja and asked me to come later. I rounded back to find the temple locked.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Per Arulālan Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Periyazhwār, Thirumazhisai azhwār & Thirumangai azhwār
13. Thiru Kazhiseeāma Vinnagaram - Sri Thrivikraman Perumāl Temple
In spite of running around like Forrest Gump, I couldn’t make it to this temple before noon. Since I had to go back to Chennai by evening, I had to give this temple a pass. I got reminded of the Ulagalantha Perumāl temple (also known as Thrivikraman) and assumed this one would be similar.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Thrivikraman Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Thirumangai azhwār
I am going to do some time-travel here, as we go back a couple of weeks to my visit to Chidambaram. I visited the famous Thillai Nataraja Temple, also known as Chidambaram Nataraja Temple dedicated to Nataraja, the dancing avatār of Shiva. It was a massive temple, and I absolutely loved going around, but my biggest surprise was finding a Divya Desam shrine also housed in the same temple premises.
14. Thiru Chitra Koodam - Sri Govindarāja Perumāl Temple
I love huge temples and this is one of the biggest there is. Huge gopurams (temple towers), sprawling walkways, and a huge kolam made for an absolutely fantastic temple. The inner halls were massive too, and I could have spent hours just looking at the pillars and inscriptions there.
The Govindarāja Perumāl Sannidhi is situated across the main Natarāja Sannidhi (Sanctum Sanctorum). He is seen lying on a Ādisesha with 7 heads along with Utsavars in three different poses. Truly one of the more breathtaking sights.
Factoids -
Main deity - Sri Govindarājan Perumāl
Mentioned in Prabhandam by - Kulasekara azhwaār & Thirumangai azhwār Legend & more
With that my Divya Desam journey for the year came to a close. I took an “unreserved” ticket on the Cholan Express back home, and it was the first time in my memory that I traveled on a train that way. Luckily I managed to get a seat on an upper berth after a couple of hours.
Safe to say that there are always new and unique experiences in these temple visits, which makes it all the more worthwhile. I am looking forward to part 3 of my journey soon, and I hope this information will be valuable to you. Thanks for following my journey!
Originally published here.